GB2032249A - Creation of Inventions and Patents with Artificial Intelligence

GB2032249A – Improvements in jewellery bracelets
– Google Patents

GB2032249A – Improvements in jewellery bracelets
– Google Patents
Improvements in jewellery bracelets

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Publication number
GB2032249A

GB2032249A
GB7841140A
GB7841140A
GB2032249A
GB 2032249 A
GB2032249 A
GB 2032249A
GB 7841140 A
GB7841140 A
GB 7841140A
GB 7841140 A
GB7841140 A
GB 7841140A
GB 2032249 A
GB2032249 A
GB 2032249A
Authority
GB
United Kingdom
Prior art keywords
helices
bracelet
helix
length
tapered
Prior art date
1978-10-19
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)

Granted

Application number
GB7841140A
Other versions

GB2032249B
(en

Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)

AURIFEX Ltd

Original Assignee
AURIFEX Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
1978-10-19
Filing date
1978-10-19
Publication date
1980-05-08

1978-10-19
Application filed by AURIFEX Ltd
filed
Critical
AURIFEX Ltd

1978-10-19
Priority to GB7841140A
priority
Critical
patent/GB2032249B/en

1980-05-08
Publication of GB2032249A
publication
Critical
patent/GB2032249A/en

1982-06-23
Application granted
granted
Critical

1982-06-23
Publication of GB2032249B
publication
Critical
patent/GB2032249B/en

Status
Expired
legal-status
Critical
Current

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Classifications

A—HUMAN NECESSITIES

A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY

A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS

A44C5/00—Bracelets; Wrist-watch straps; Fastenings for bracelets or wrist-watch straps

A44C5/0053—Flexible straps

A44C5/0061—Flexible straps essentially made from metal

Abstract

A cross-weave or polynese bracelet is tapered by progressively increasing the number of turns or convolutions of some or all the helices 12, 14, 16 which constitute the tapered zone. The increase may be made alternately on opposite side edges of the zone or symmetrically, and by different amounts according to the rate of taper required. All helices are wound to the same pitch w in the same size r of stock material, thus obviating the cost and complexity inherent in the use of different sizes of stock material to produce the taper. It is also possible to achieve a higher rate of taper than can be achieved by lateral squeezing of a series of helices of identical size initially wound to a pitch more than twice the width of the ribbon.

Description

SPECIFICATION
Improvements in jewellery bracelets
This invention relates to jewellery bracelets of the chain linktype in which a plurality of chain links, each constituted by several turns of a flattened helix of wire or narrow ribbon, are meshed together in a series of alternately right-hand and left-hand helices so that their respective turns or convolutions intercalate. One convolution subtends 360″ at the axis of the helix. The intercalated helices are mechanically coupled together to form a chain by passing a hinge or coupling pin through each tunnel formed by the overlapping arcuate ends of a pair of meshing flattened helices, and locking the pin in place. Each flattened convolution terminates at each end in a 180″ arc of fixed radius to accommodate a standard size hinge pin as a relatively snug fit.Such bracelets are commonly known as “cross-weave” or “polynese”.
It is frequently required to widen the ends of a cross-weave bracelet where they engage say, a watch. This widening takes place progressively over a short length or zone of the bracelet (referred to herein as the “tapered” zone) so that the lateral boundaries appearto diverge in either a generally straight or a smoothly curved line from the main body of the bracelet towards the widened end. This effect has hitherto been achieved by either of two methods. The first method is by winding all the helices of the bracelet to a pitch more than twice the diameter of the wire or twice the width of the ribbon, and then squeezing the bracelet laterally to reduce the pitch of the helices progressively over the tapered section and constantly over the main body of the bracelet. This method can only produce short or slow tapers.The second method is by progressively increasing the diameter of the wire or the width of the ribbon up to a maximum at the widest end. All the helices must initially be wound to the same pitch irrespective of the diameter or width of the stock material, and the taper is formed, as in the first method, by squeezing the bracelet. This second method can produce a more rapid taper but the total change in width is limited by the factthat as the narrower-ribbon helices are squeezed they elongate until, beyond a certain point, the hinge pins become unacceptably slack. It is an object of the present invention to enable both longer and more rapid tapers to be formed without slackness.
The second method of tapering a cross-weave or polynese bracelet by progressive changes in width of the ribbon also involves the stocking of different widths of ribbon which must be kept separate. This adds to the materials cost and, since the differences are small, this inevitably increases the risk of confusion. Furthermore, different widths of ribbon call for different coil-winding tools, which increases tool costs. The present invention removes these disadvantages.
According to the present invention, the tapered zone of a tapered cross-weave chain link bracelet is produced by increasing the number of turns or convolutions in successive helices or groups of helices of identical pitch whilst keeping the width of the ribbon and the pitch of the chain constant.
Each successive increase in the number of turns or convolutions may be one half or more, and oppositely handed links may be grouped in pairs having equal numbers of turns or convolutions, or there may be more than two links in a group, depending on the desired rate of taper.
Where the increase is one, the longer helix may be symmetrically located on the shorter, leaving one half convolution projecting at each lateral boundary of the bracelet. The tails of the longer helix point along the bracelet in the opposite direction from that of the tails of the shorter helix; and where the hinge pins are made captive by turning in the tips of the tails to obstruct the hinge pin tunnel, two tails can be turned in at each end so as to preserve the smooth contour of the boundary or edge of the bracelet.
Practical embodiments of the present invention will now be described, by way of illustration only thereof, with reference to the accompanying mainly schematic drawings in which:
Figure 1 is a fragmentary plan view of part of a tapered bracelet including the tapered zone in which successive pairs of alternate right-hand and lefthand helices are increased by one whole convolution;
Figure 2 is a fragmentary plan, generally similar to
Figure 1, showing successive individual helices increased by one whole convolution, and
Figure 3 is a fragmentary plan, also generally similarto Figure 1, showing successive pairs of alternately-handed helices increased by two whole convolutions.
In the drawings, each convolution is represented as two rectilinear legs of a Vee, one drawn in solid lines, the other partly in broken lines. The solid line leg represents the half-turn which, in the threedimensional product, lies above the plane of the drawing, while the broken line leg represents the other half-turn. The drawings also represent helices which are wound in flat ribbon, but it is to be understood that they may be wound in round or oval wire, the same principles of donstruction of a tapered bracelet applying equally in all cases.
Moreover, the free end of a helix is represented as a flat tail which is both twisted about its longitudinal axis through 90″ and curved inwards, so as to represent graphically the result of a final finishing operation in which an assembled bracelet is squeezed laterally to smooth the contour of each edge or boundary.
Each figure of the drawing illustrates one lateral boundary or edge of the tapered zone of the bracelet, the other edge being either symmetrical therewith or, where the longer helices are shown grouped in pairs, exhibiting steps in increase of helix length which are alternate with those as shown in the drawing to give a staggered effect. In the following description, it will be assumed that a symmetrical taper is adoped, and the increase in the number of convolutions in successive individual helices or groups of helices relates to a symmetrical tapered zone.
Referring first to Figure 1 of the drawings, the main body of the bracelet is indicated by alternatehanded helices at 10. The next pair of alternatehanded helices 12 is increased in length by one extra convolution over those which form the main body 10; the next pair 14 has a further extra convolution, and the next pair 16 has a still further extra convolution, so that each helix of the pair 16 has three convolutions more than those which form the main body 10 of the bracelet. The pairs of helices 12 16 constitute the tapered zone, alternate helices being selected for an increase in length. The end helix of the pair 16 is coupled by a hinge pin 18 to the lugs 20 of an article 22 such as a wrist watch which is carried by the bracelet. It wili be understood that the manner of connection of the bracelet to the article 22 is optional, and that the arrangement shown is purely formal.
In every helix in the entire bracelet, three basic parameters of construction remain constant. These parameters are:
1. width of ribbon (or gauge of wire); 2. pitch of the winding ofthe helix;
3. pitch of the chain links.
Thus, taking one of the pair of helices 16 as an example, the width of the ribbon from which it is wound is rand the pitch of winding of the helix is w.
These values are identical for all the other helices.
The chain link pitch c is constant throughout the bracelet. Consequently, the entire tapered bracelet can be made from the same stock material on the same coil-winding machine, and lateral squeezing to produce the taper is not required, although the operation may in fact be performed so as to ensure the elimination of irregulaties along the edges.
Figure 1 illustrates another feature of construction which is common to the present invention wherein the taper is achieved by increasing the length of each selected helix by one whole convolution at a time symmetrically with respect to the main body 10 of the bracelet. This is that at each step, or junction between helices of unequal length, the tails of the adjacent shorter and longer helices point in opposite directions. Thus, for example, the tail 24 of the last of the main body helices 10 points upwards in the drawing while the tail 26 of the first of the pair of increased length helices points downwards, and overlies the tail 24. Both tails thus serve to hold the same hinge pin 28 captive.
At the next step, however, the feature of reversal of the direction of the adjacent tails 30, 32 leaves the tunnel for the hinge pin 34 unobstructed. The pin 34, therefore, must either be soldered or otherwise locked in place by adhesive, or a releasable-head pin such as that illustrated at 18 must be used, as described in the specification of our co-pending patent application No. 23547i77.
Figure 2 shows a bracelet having a higher rate of taper which resu Its from selecting each helix for an increase in length of one whole turn or convolution.
When this is done, every alternate pin 36 must be rendered captive by means of adhesive or solder, or by the use of a releasable-head pin as mentioned above, and shown at 18 in Figure 2. As in Figure 1, the three basic parameters of construction remain constant, so that the same economies of stock
material and tooling are realised.
Figure 3 shows a variant in which each successive
increase in length of helix is by two whole convolutions.Thus, again assuming symmetry of assembly,
each successive longer helix overlaps or projects at
each end beyond the preceding shorter helix by one
whole convolution. In this arrangement, all the tails
24 point in the same direction, but if, as is normal,
the bracelet is tapered equally at both ends, the
arrangement of the tails at each step is modified at that end of the bracelet where they point towards the
wider end. This is illustrated in two alternative ways
in Figure 3. In the first alternative, the final part
convolution 40 of the shorter helix 42 which would
normally be bent inwards to retain the respective
hinge pin 38 in its tunnel is cropped at 44 so as to
terminate clear of the longer helix 46.In the second
alternative, the final part-convolution 40′ of the
shorter helix 42′ is soldered to the pin 38′ as
indicated at 48.
Although, in Figure 3, the longer helices are shown
grouped in pairs 46,47 and 46′, 47′, this is not
essential, and each step in length can be made at
successive helices in the same manner as in Figure
2. In this arrangement also, the same economies of
stock material and tooling are realised.
In a further possible arrangement, the taper is formed by increasing the length of a helix at each step by one half convolution, and staggering the
steps alternately on the opposite lateral boundaries
or side edges. Thus, for exampie, referring again to
Figure 1, the second or upper helix of the pair 12 may belongerthan the lower helix of the pair by one half
convolution, but the step appears on the right-hand
edge of the bracelet. Similarly with the other pairs 14, 16, the upper helix of each may be one half
convolution longer than its companion, the resultant
successive steps appearing staggered on the right
hand edge with respect to those illustrated on the- left-hand edge.

Claims (8)

1. The method of tapering the width of across- weave jewellery bracelet comprising winding a
plurality of helices of the same sized stock material
at the same helical pitch, and increasing the lengths
of selected helices in the tapered zone by at least one
half convolution with respect to an adjacent helix.

2. The method according to Claim 1 wherein
each increase in length of the selected helices is by a
whole number of convolutions.

3. The method according to Claim 2 wherein the selected helices are assembled symmetrically with
respect to the remainder of the bracelet.

4. The method according to Claim 1, 2 or 3
wherein every second, third, or other ordinal helix is
selected for an increase in length.

5. The method according to Claim 1 or 2 wherein
the step formed by each increase in length is located
alternately on opposite side edges of the tapered
zone to present a staggered boundary formation.

6. A tapered cross-weave jewellery bracelet wherein the tapered zone is formed by a plurality of
selected helices of progressively increasing length but having the same helical pitch and the same size of stock material as all the helices in the bracelet.

7. A bracelet according to Claim 6 wherein the selected helices are symmetrical with respect to the remainder of the bracelet.

8. The method of tapering the width of a crossweave jewellery bracelet substantially as hereinbefore described with reference to the accompanying drawings.

GB7841140A
1978-10-19
1978-10-19
Jewellery bracelets

Expired

GB2032249B
(en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number
Priority Date
Filing Date
Title

GB7841140A

GB2032249B
(en)

1978-10-19
1978-10-19
Jewellery bracelets

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number
Priority Date
Filing Date
Title

GB7841140A

GB2032249B
(en)

1978-10-19
1978-10-19
Jewellery bracelets

Publications (2)

Publication Number
Publication Date

GB2032249A
true

GB2032249A
(en)

1980-05-08

GB2032249B

GB2032249B
(en)

1982-06-23

Family
ID=10500433
Family Applications (1)

Application Number
Title
Priority Date
Filing Date

GB7841140A
Expired

GB2032249B
(en)

1978-10-19
1978-10-19
Jewellery bracelets

Country Status (1)

Country
Link

GB
(1)

GB2032249B
(en)

1978

1978-10-19
GB
GB7841140A
patent/GB2032249B/en
not_active
Expired

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Publication number
Publication date

GB2032249B
(en)

1982-06-23

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